My top tips for highlighted skin
Highlighter is a product that can completely change a beauty look. If applied correctly, it gives skin a glowing look. When you’re choosing a highlighter you have to think about the skin tone; if you have very sallow skin, pink toned highlighters are going to stick out, but if you have very pale skin pink tones are perfect. The goal when applying highlighter is to get a reflective dewy look that makes the skin look like it’s just been moisturised. And not looking shiny or glittery, I always warm this up on the back of my hand to see how it looks and blend it before applying to the skin. If the product gives the skin a slight sheen you’ve got it right, if it looks covered in glitter or sickly, try again. Also for make-up artists applying this look on a shoot make sure it’s the look the photographer agrees with as they may think the skin looks shiny and camera and they will nagging you to keep powdering to make it matte(this also applied for normal people rocking this look and having their pictures took at a party etc)
When you’re looking for a product, no matter what the skin undertones, look for one that has a number of different pearl shades like MAC Cosmetics colour cream bases for a perfect, balanced glow. If you’re just starting out with highlighters, try one such as Illamasqua Gleam in Aurora this shade is pigmented with colour to suit most skin tones. This will keep you away from applying the product all over the face until you learn the peaks contours of your face or your models.
There are three main areas you should apply highlighter: the cheekbones and temples, the eyes, and the Cupid’s bow. If you apply a foundation with a foundation brush, which I suggest, use that same brush to apply your highlighter. The product remaining on your brush will help with the blending process. When applying it to the cheeks blend it on the highest point of the cheekbone and up towards the temple. This is especially important if you’re doing any contouring as it will draw attention away from the makeup-made shadows. When applying it to the eyes, blend it underneath the eyebrow on the brow bone and into the inner crease. The lightness on the inner crease will open up the eyes and the brow bone contouring will give a brow-lift effect.
Applying highlighter to the lips is less common but can reap great results. Before applying a lipstick, blend some highlighter in the Cupid’s bow and underneath the bottom lip with only a touch of the highlighter will show through, giving the lipstick a multi-dimensional colour effect. You can also apply it to the bridge of the nose.
Don’t try to use highlighter for coverage, especially for areas of pigmentation or redness. The shimmering tones will only serve to draw attention to the area. Some concealers have light-reflecting properties in them but they should be used sparingly outside the eye area. You should always apply highlighter after foundation or tinted moisturiser but before your concealer. You should always match the texture of the highlighter to the base, so if you’re using liquid or cream foundation, opt for a creamy highlighter that you can blend well into the skin. If you want to use a powder highlighter, put a thin layer of translucent powder on over the foundation. You want the highlighter to really blend with the foundation. All this highlighting is going to make the skin naturally glowing and luminescent like in the above picture I did on a recent photo-shoot.
Photography: Jayesh Pankhania
Make-up: Karla Powell
Hair & Styling: Joey Bevan
Model: Emily @ Models1